Why Comedogenic Rating Is Important In Skincare Despite Conflicting Reports

In skincare, there is perhaps no topic more debated than the comedogenic rating of ingredients. Comedogenicity refers to the tendency of a substance to cause skin irritation, block pores and cause acne. Despite some controversial reports suggesting that comedogenic ratings are not a reliable way to predict whether a product will cause breakouts, many skincare experts including world-renowned dermatologists, chemists and researchers still argue that this measurement is an important tool in creating effective, non-pore clogging formulations.

How It All Began

The history of comedogenic ratings can be traced back to the late 1970s, when researchers (like dermatologist Albert Kligman) began testing various ingredients on rabbit ears to determine their potential to cause acne (we do not condone the modalities of testing on animals but that's history and hopefully many researchers and skincare brands can embrace the cruelty-free approach!). While this method has since been scrutinised and criticised, it established the foundation for the comedogenic scale that is still in use today in professional beauty circles and has benefited so many people around the world. And for good reason!

The Scale That Should Never Balance

The comedogenic scale ranges from 0 to 5, with 0 being completely non-comedogenic and 5 being highly comedogenic. Ingredients that are commonly considered to be comedogenic include coconut oil, cocoa butter, and wheat germ oil, all of which have a rating of 4 or higher. On the other hand, ingredients such as aloe vera, honey, and witch hazel have a rating of 0 and are considered to be non-comedogenic.

So why is comedogenic rating still important in skincare? The answer is simple: prevention is always better than cure. While some people with normal skin may be able to get away with using comedogenic ingredients without experiencing breakouts, others with problem skin may not be so lucky. And once acne has formed, it can be difficult , expensive and time-consuming to treat.

The Best Course Of Action 

This is why it is essential for skincare brands to always take comedogenic ratings into account when formulating their products. By using only non-comedogenic ingredients (ideally naturally-derived), they can help to ensure that their products will not cause breakouts or irritation, even in those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Furthermore, for those who do suffer from problem skin, comedogenic ratings can be a valuable tool in identifying which ingredients to avoid. For example, someone with cystic acne may want to steer clear of ingredients with a high comedogenic rating, such as coconut oil, cocoa butter, isoproply myristate , acetylated lanolin alcohol,  palm oil,  fragrance, synthetic dyes, marula oil, steareth, hexadecyl alcohol or algae extracts in order to prevent further breakouts.

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, while the comedogenic rating system may not be perfect, it is still an important tool in the world of skincare. By using non-comedogenic ingredients and avoiding those with a high comedogenic rating, skincare brands can help to ensure that their products are safe and effective for all skin types especially those with acne-prone, oily and sensitive skin type. For those with problem skin, understanding comedogenic ratings can be a key part of creating a successful skincare routine and it's a safe start. Better to get it right the first time than risk it, right?